Had to take the clutch out back in 2011, because rear main seal leaking. Made a video on how to do it, because back then YouTube was quite empty. Fixed the rear main seal, repair is at 110,000 miles.
Dinan clutch is from 38,000 miles and the Dinan clutch is still in the car at 178,000 miles.
Video: M5 E39 Rear Main Seal Repair
Writeup: M5 E39 DIY Rear Main Seal
Here the core of the Flux Capacitor revealed.
Check out the glowing pins in center of Flux Capacitor due to the extreme heat produced of the burst of up to 1.21 Gigawatts of power when the drive is engaged through the Getrag 6-speed transmission to the rear wheels.
Normally glowing occurs only above 88 miles per hour.
Note also that this is exactly the same thing that Hans Solo & R2D2 has to fix on the Millennium Falcon when their warp-drive fails.
(This is the clutch pressure plate if you don’t speak in BTF or R2D2 languages)
Close-up of rear main seal area. Note the oil happened to be PERFECTLY level with the top of the oil pan. This was by chance, but the oil was extra high up since the car has the front tilted upward with the front wheels in the air. You can see the reflection of the crank-shaft in the oil.
Putting on the gasket for the rear main seal. The bottom has no gasket since the oil pan steel gasket isolates it there. Just make sure to put some oil on the finger and coat the oil pan gasket lightly so it’s not dry when installing new rear main seal.
Appropriate torque is being used to tighten the flywheel. The torque specs can be found on Vantaam5’s DIY:
BMW special tools to tighten the self adjusting clutch (springs).
Since I have no vocab available for these tools I will call the circular tool “Spring-tool” and the clamp-type looking one “Pressure-tool”.
Shown is a close-up of BMW/Dinan self adjusting clutch and clutch pressure plate.
Note the 3 springs on the pressure plate. If these springs are not re-tightened during re-install of a used clutch, chances are the clutch will slip once driven. The tools illustrated above will be used for this purpose. To my best knowledge this is also ought to be done on a new clutch to prevent any chance of slipping.
Also note that the clutch-centering tool is not inserted as it ought to be. We removed it so we could get more pics, and forgot to put it in, when taking the 2nd set of pics. (Yes we installed and removed the pressure plate 3x so we could get proper pics).
Pic: Swinging by TruSpeed Motorcars in Newport Beach and BMW dealer and to pick up more parts, screws and bolts. Best of my knowledge is to get replace all the bolts and screws that you removed, including the throw out bearing (clutch release bearing). So did I at least. When the M5 needs attention; unless I’m under my M5 in my driveway, it is on one of these lifts.
Run to the top of the mountain at sunrise, to test if clutch is slipping. No slip in the clutch after it was warmed up @ WOT in 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th.
Job well done.
2020 Update on Clutch
Still running the same clutch on the car almost 10 years after the Rear Main Seal repair. The Rear Main Seal is still not leaking. Car got Dinan clutch and flywheel at 38,000 miles, the Rear Main Seal was repaired at 110,000 miles, now the car has 180,000 miles and the clutch still grips great. Considering the beating the car and clutch has gotten, my opinion is that people who complain their clutch goes out between 5000 and 20,000km, simply do not know how to clutch the M5.